Seeing a performer enveloped with his/her instrument creating a song is pure magic. Even more entrancing is when a group of musicians work together to produce melodies. I appreciate this talent more than ever now that I have started to form chords and strum the ukulele which has yet to develop into songs. Live music can be found throughout Nashville and it’s not all country style tunes. As we strolled down “music row” each building blared beats through open doors inviting one to enter their realm. There’s a huge variety in Nashville, “The Music City.”

We happened upon Rudy’s Jazz Room in the basement of a pizza joint. The group of four musicians was led by the drummer, Duffy Jackson. In true jazz form each artist performed solos during the pieces. Watching the sax player improvise was like a dance. The keyboardist tickled out a tune with instinctive harmony. The base player slid his hand on he neck and plucked individual strings. Duffy, the drummer, added his voice to the mix with scatting. (wordless sounds to compliment the music) At one point Duffy had the audience join in. He’d scat, “Be bop sher ee bop do wee da bop doo” and have us repeat. Thirty-six individuals joined in creating a comradely bond.

At their break Duffy worked his way around the small basement pub shaking hands and thanking people for coming out to see the show. Duffy shared that he had started playing drums when he was four years old following in his father’s footsteps, Chubby Jackson. Before his high school graduation Duffy made appearances with Count Basie, Duke Ellington, Woody Herman and Buddy Rich. After high school (1971) he toured in Japan. Duffy appeared on television with Sammy Davis, Jr. from 1974-1976. Then, he toured through Europe with Count Basie. He played with several other jazz artists including Manhattan Transfer. I thought he looked familiar. Our family watched Sammy Davis, Jr. and later we’d gone to a Manhattan Transfer concert in Grand Rapids. Meeting down-to-earth Duffy was a true treat!

As the band reassembled, I ordered another “Pink Panther” cocktail and eased back into my cushioned chair for another set. Later there was an “Jam Session” where several jazz musicians carried their instruments into the underground venue and played pieces together as a large group of musicians.

With Chuck’s guitar playing repertoire including Johnny Cash songs, I was enticed to see the Johnny Cash Cafe and Museum. The restaurant is set up as a cafeteria with southern style eats. As with each restaurant on “Music Row,” there was a live band. However, the young group was not playing Johnny Cash songs, rather modern, whiny (in my opinion) country songs. The lyrics left a lot to be desired. “Oh dear, I need some beer.” Chuck squirmed in his seat ready to dart to something more authentic.

Adam McDonough held The B.B. King’s House of Blues’ stage on his own with original blues pieces. Until, that is, his young daughter (on the left) joined him and started dancing. Her carefree confidence was charming! His performance felt intimate as the crowd was light at 3:00 pm. The small group clapped after each song. After a local sporting event finished B.B. King’s Blues Club was hopping busy. Adam’s tunes didn’t get the attention they deserved at that point. I wondered to myself, is it that sports people are more self absorbed or is it that the chaos of the crowd canceled out his songs. We continued to applaud for each piece and ordered more drinks: Lucille, Boogie Woogie, Hoochie Coochie Man. They were delicious. Uniquely named cocktails became a hobby on our trip.

We joined 250,000 people for Nashville’s New Year’s Eve Celebration concert with Keith Urban, Jason Isbell and Stevie Nicks. I enjoyed the energy of the concert, dancing my way closer to the stage, dragging Chuck along. The crowd made him uneasy. (his background has taught him to be cautious in masses of people.) Keith Urban was interviewed by the NBC’s New York anchors for the coverage of the event. Cameras on cranes slid over us. The images were broadcast nationally which was a thrill. By 10:00 pm I start to “turn into a pumpkin,” so to say. We started our trek back to the hotel. We’d done our tacky tourist bit and welcomed the new year from our hotel room. I was anxious to get back to the book, “The Painted Girls” by Cathy Marie Buchanan.

There aren’t street signs showing, “The House of Cards” restaurant. When we arrived at 119 3rd Avenue, a man dressed in suit led us to a door in the back of the room. He entered a code and the door opened to a stone tunnel leading downstairs. Velvet curtains and chandeliers give a 1920’s feel to this elegant, hidden restaurant. Cocktails are plentiful complimenting an exquisite menu. We each ordered lamb cooked medium accompanied by tomato soup and a beet salad. It was superb.

In two corners of the brasserie there was a small table with six chairs to view a magician in an intimate setting. As one entertainer packed up to rotate, there was an awkward silence as we waited for the next performer.

Chuck popped up and stood behind the table, then touched his forehead, “I am thinking someone here has a vowel in his or her name.” The next performer walked up, sat down in an audience seat. “This is good. Keep going”, he encouraged. Chuck nodded, but retreated to the chair beside me. Ryan Shadow took his place behind the table and showed his cigarette floating inside his overturned hat. Then the cigarette emerged, “dancing” in front of Ryan. It was remarkable! There’s a link at the end of the article to see a youtube video of his stunt. He had one lady get a straw from the bar. Ryan had this floating, too. He dazzled us with card tricks, poking a pencil through a $20.00 bill and watches set to the same time. It was crazy cool!

We were given two tickets for the Carlos Munoz illusionist show after our meal. It was held in a small, plush auditorium. During the show Carlos asked Chuck, “What’s your name?” “Buford,” Chuck answered strait-faced. Carlos genuinely laughed. “Really?”, he said, “That’s unusual. What’s your last name?” “Olafsfjordur” Chuck gave his family’s location in Iceland. “Wha?”, Carlos said. “What do you do?” Carlos asked pulling his eyebrows together. “I am a Viking marauder.” People around us repeated, “Viking marauder” in an attempt to build meaning of this occupation. Carlos shook his head. Chuck had stumped the performer who went on with the show. He always makes life interesting! I marveled at each magician’s illusions. I haven’t clue how these stunts were done. I enjoyed being mystified!

We found many other attractions, too. At Marathon Village 200 Clinton Street there are many small shops, including Antique Archaeology from the American Pickers television show, and the Corsair Distillery at 601 Merritt Avenue.

“Corsair” means pirate in French. Darek Bell and his childhood friend, Andrew Webber, started brewing beer and wine at home. They decided that making whiskey would be better and began studying about distilleries and spirits. In 2008 they founded Corsair in Bowling Green, KY. In 2010 they became the first distillery in Nashville since prohibition. They have earned over 800 awards and have been praised in many publications. Their trademark (above) came from their observation of three men being escorted from a bar after enjoying too many adult beverages. They had a photographer work with them on this pose. Andrew is on the left and Darek is in the middle. The third guy was added to complete the story of the trio being relocated from the pub’s presence.

After the “mash” is “cooked” through five different cylinders, the product is put into “Ethel” to be boiled and separated into heads, hearts and tails. The “head” is the non drinkable, “methanol” cleaning-type solution which is sold as such to companies to keep their places spotless. The “heart” is the drinkable “ethanol” of 70-75 % proof. This is used to create their variety of gins and whiskeys which are aged in oak barrels. The “tails” are the sediments left at the bottom of the copper vat.

At the end of the tour we were able to sample four of their “adventurous” spirits. I sipped my sample of gin and the three whiskeys. Boy, my nose stung and tingled. My throat burned. Chuck “helped” me with his favorite flavors. The others I discarded into my empty water glass. They were too strong for me!

My favorite part of the tour was, Pizza, the distillery cat. She keeps a look out for rodents and takes care of them in quick order as was evidenced by her sagging belly. She did, however, take a moment out of her busy schedule to get a pet from Chuck who’d flicked his fingers and clucked his tongue calling her over – his signature cat call. Then swiftly she left our group to complete her missions. Others in our group were disappointed that Pizza didn’t have time for them.

Starting in Natchez, Mississippi the parkway runs north through three states including Alabama and Tennessee. It would take ten hours to drive the parkway straight through, however there are approximately fifteen unique stops along the way: cypress swamp, Helen Keller’s birthplace, Elvis’ homestead, an automobile museum, waterfalls and scenic views as well as “witch dance” where there’s been reported paranormal activity.

The Natchez Trace Hiking Trail is sixty miles in five sections. It provides a first hand feel of the paths used by early travelers. These courses were used by American Indians, settlers, boatmen and slaves. It’s a walk through history with gorgeous views. These footpaths are maintained by the National Park Service.

On our tour of the Belle Meade Plantation we learned some of the history with the focus on producing thoroughbred race horses. In 1806 John Harding purchased 250 acres. He named it “Belle Meade” meaning “beautiful meadow.” He purchased enslaved people to work the land and create a self sustaining plantation. By 1820, John moved into the thoroughbred horse business. He needed a whole new crew to work with the racing mammals. John Harding soon became the “owner” of the largest enslaved population (136) in the area with a grist mill, saw mill, cotton gin, blacksmith shop and stables.

In 1828 a negro baby, Robert Green, was gifted to the plantation. As Bob grew he developed a demigod status with horse knowledge which was respected by blacks and whites alike. Teddy Roosevelt and Grover Cleveland came to see “Uncle Bob” for advice as did many others. However, he was still enslaved and lived without rights. After the Emancipation Proclamation Uncle Bob and 72 others continued to work and live on the grounds. Where else could they make a living?

There were eight duplex slave houses on the property with about ten people in each section. The weekly food rations for anyone over the age of 13 would be four pounds of pork and corn meal. The emancipated slaves were paid two times each year with fines being deducted for any number of reasons: broken items, missing a day, misconduct as stated by the plantation owner. That doesn’t sound like freedom to me. The plight of the enslaved people grabs my heart as does the unfairness that is still occurring today around this planet.

On a lighter note, we found this curious bar, “The Troll Pub Under the Bridge” in Louisville, Kentucky. It’s tucked below this building next to the George Rogers Clark Memorial Bridge. They have a secret room behind a bookcase that seats eight. We found a spot at the bar area in the underground cavern. In Louisville there are underground zip lines which sounded exciting. Maybe it’s something for you to check out when you’re in Louisville.

When we returned to our Kentucky hotel, they were offering free drinks to “gold” members. I partook in a few glasses of wine. (Usually I just have one drink.) Outside the bar there sat an empty luggage cart. Chuck inquired, “Do you want a ride?” “Sure!” The Restless Viking makes adventure wherever we go!

We encourage you to travel to Nashville and peer behind the curtain, looking beyond the tacky tourist sights. There’s joy to be found!

Ryan Shadow’s street performance:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5X1UfpILNA