I have always visited Mackinac in the summer when Main Street is teeming with horses, carriages, bikes and many, many people. Main Street felt as if we’d found a supernatural museum. The roadway was so peaceful and serene.
What’s it like to live on this small island year round?
Margaret Doud, the Mayor of Mackinac Island said, “It’s like being mayor to two completely different cities. There are approximately five hundred year round residents however there can be up to 1.2 million tourists during the summer months.” The community is a close-knit and family oriented faction. The bands of people in the summer steel this focus. Few know the interlaced, woven structure that lies behind the fudge shops and the striking scenery. Da Viking and I wanted to look behind the curtain of Mackinac Island life.
Mackinac Island is east of the Mackinac Bridge which connects the upper and lower peninsulas of Michigan. The island boasts the only Michigan highway that has never had a single car accident. It’s simple. No cars are allowed on the island. (except for a snowplow and emergency vehicles)
M-185 encircles the eight mile perimeter of the island. In the summer it is ringed with bunches of bicycles and in the winter the whir of an occasional snowmobile breaks the snow laden silence.
How do the residents travel to the mainland for supplies?
Most years the lake freezes between Mackinac Island and the town of St. Ignace in the upper peninsula. Islanders line up their Christmas trees across the ice to mark a snowmobile path. Unfortunately, the lake didn’t freeze this year so there wasn’t an ice bridge from British Landing to the mainland.
With only a thin layer of ice in parts of the lake, the ferry was still running. We purchased tickets and were on our way. Islanders demonstrated their true kinship aboard the vessel. Everyone nodded, called each other by name and chatted while being masked and socially distanced. We walked around the wheeled supply carts in the hull and mounted the stairs to the padded benches in the heated cabin.
Weather permitting, one can take a flight to the island for $35.00 round trip
with Great Lakes Air. This is an eight minute flight from St. Ignace to the island airport. However, if there are low clouds or fog, a flight becomes impossible. Residents understand that supplies may be delayed for weeks at a time during the winter.
Why is Mackinac called “Turtle Island?”
The Native Tribes (Anishnaabek, which encompasses Odawa, Ojibway, Potawatomi) tell the story of how Mackinac Island was the first land on Earth. The legend tells how a turtle allowed several animals to try to put soil on his back creating a place for the animals to rest. Finally a muskrat was able to accomplish the task. People today refer to Mackinac Island as “Turtle Island.” (Mackinac means turtle.) From a distance the island resembles a turtle shape.
How did we get our supplies for our stay?
After getting settled in our suite at The Pontiac Lodge, we strolled to Doud’s Market on Main Street to pick up provisions. Doud’s Market is open year round from 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Andrew Doud, a fifth generation islander and owner of Doud’s market, said, “There’s a camaraderie that exsists here, I think it doesn’t exsist in other places.” It’s a unique community with a multigenerational factor and a somewhat secluded atmosphere.
Trish laughed, “Everyone’s related here.” Her eyes smiled. “Now there’s ‘locals’ and then there’s ‘islanders.'” Trish explained. “I moved here at 18 years old. I left for awhile and now I’ve moved back, but I will never be considered a ‘local.’ ” Only those born and raised on the island earn that title.
Another customer, Brandon, piped in, “We all see the same people each day and know each other.” It’s a friendly place to work and live.
How do residents navigate the island?
Transportations can be an issue. Andrew Doud explained, “There’s a thing called island life and I think patience is a part of that. Then you double down and you’re on horse time.” He chuckled.
Robert McGreevy, who drove the plow until his retirement in November 2020, was the ‘custodian of the island.’ His job was to construct clear paths for the emergency vehicles while leaving enough snow on the roads for the snowmobiles. He said his focus is on the airport as planes often become the only method of transportation during the winter season.
Chuck, Da Viking, and I rented fat wheel bikes from Jim at Mackinac Wheels. Chuck asked, “Are you an islander or a local?” “It’s complicated.” Jim responded with a sigh. His dad was born and raised on the island which makes his dad an official ‘local.’ Jim had left for a short period but within four years Jim will have lived on the island as long as his dad. However, some would argue as to Jim’s status as a local.
Cross country skiing and snowshoeing are relaxing ways to circumvent the island.
What about some other residents?
Brian Bailey from the Chippewa Hotel said, “Mackinac Island is a unique place. There’s no place like it in the world.”
Heather, who runs May’s fudge shop, also works at the Mackinac Island School. Holding multiple positions of responsibility is typical for residents in this small community. She is a fifth generation candy maker and hopes to pass on this tradition to her children.
Marty Patay, the recreation director, responded to the often asked question, “What do you do on the island all winter?” Islanders stick together and create fun. “There’s ice skating on Tuesdays and hockey on Thursdays. We have archery, workout classes, ballroom dancing.” Patay happily listed in a video interview in 2018.
In early December the island families gather for the Christmas Bazaar and potluck. Donated items are auctioned to raise money for their medical facility as well as their school. The island community pulls together to help each other and always makes it fun!
Meredith and her husband moved into the recently constructed condo complex four years ago. (It’s located NE of The Grand Hotel.) I asked how she brought home their groceries. “In the summer we use a wagon. In the winter, I can call the police, giving them two hours advance notice, and they’ll give me a ride.”
Is there a school on Mackinac Island?
Yes, there’s a year round school on the island. The Kindergarten through twelfth grade school is a marvel of small town support. It closely resembles the one room schoolhouse model with older students assisting the younger in split grade-level classrooms. Learning flourishes in this environment.
In 2017 they had a total of 64 students enrolled. Ten of these kids were on the award winning, world-class robotics team. The group was invited to St. Louis to participate in the world competition. They placed in the top 2%. Watch for an upcoming article about the Mackinac Island school.
What about the high lights around the island in the winter?
Snow covered landmarks rest peacefully, waiting for the droves of people who clamor on their land in the warmer months.
How do residents cope with the quiet hardships of living on Mackinac Island?
This multigenerational community holds a substantial bond. They are a straight forward, no nonsense society. It takes a lot of grit and flexibility to live on a secluded island. They embrace this life style with zest and practicality. Unlike the “fudgies,” they call the tourists, who come over to indulge themselves.
I have to admit. On Saturday, as I watched the ferry pulled away heading back to the mainland, I felt a tightening in my chest. There’s no ferry service on Sundays. With no ice bridge and a low ceiling which makes flying impossible, I grew claustrophobic. I suppose I fit into the category of a “fudgie,” a tourist, one who ranks as entitled and selfish. The ‘locals’ and ‘islanders’ hold a special place of admiration in my new awareness of year-round life on Mackinac Island.
Here’s a video of our caper put together by Da Viking, Chuck.
Resources:
WWTV / WWUP Corey Adkins January 10, 2018
“A Tale of Two Islands: Mackinac Island in the Off Season” MLive March 2018
www.mict.com/history