Two Guns/Diablo Canyon

There’s said to be a centuries-long curse at Two Guns and Diablo Canyon, so we needed to check it out! The legends and stories from the area were rich with an extended history. We left Interstate 40 at Exit 230 in Arizona as we headed west following along Route 66.

Shell Station

Right off the exit was an abandoned Shell Station. It had opened in the 1960’s and closed by 1980 when expressway 40 and travel plazas were built bypassing Route 66.

Clifford the Red was waiting to be serviced at this abandoned Shell Station.

Roofing metal clanged in the wind as we crept out of the vehicle. It was desolate, yet the spray paint gave evidence of many visitors.

Pool and Campground

Nearby, there stood a pool. From the 1960’s to the 1980’s there had been a campground at this sight. It was difficult for me to envision a resort on this dry plain.

The vast desert contrasted with this pool. It was difficult to imagine a campground surrounding this area.
Da Viking went for a refreshing dip in the pool!

Two Guns

We climbed into the Jeep to investigate the Two Guns settlement. Right away the road disappeared and we were on a rocky path leading to much older, abandoned structures.

The history of Two Guns holds many layers of violence within these rocks.

Meteor / Volcanic Eruptions

The Meteor Crater, 23 miles west of Two Guns, is large enough for downtown Los Angels to fit within the bowl.

22,000 years ago a meteor entered our atmosphere and crashed west of Two Guns. (Watch for the upcoming article about “Meteor Crater.”) Centuries later the San Francisco volcanoes erupted. Carbon dating on artifacts revealed that in this region native people could cultivate food because of the lush volcanic soil laden over the area from 1050 A.D. to 1600 A.D.

Surveying

In 1853 Captain Ameil Whipple led the Ives Party on a surveying expedition along the 35th parallel, planning the best railroad route to California. The team of 12 discovered that the sap inside a cactus (Echinocactus wislizeni) could sustain dehydrated trappers and saved their lives. John M. Bigelow, a botanist, named a California flower for their leader, Wipples’ Monkey-flower (mimulus whipplei). The group returned east with 60 new plant specimen by March of 1854.

Navajo Arrested

The first white settlers started a trading post called, “Canyon Lodge” in 1864. These immigrants had a good relationship with the Navajo until the U.S. Calvary started arresting the tribe members and detaining them at Fort Sumner, New Mexico. Many were released four year later and returned to Canyon Diablo, three miles from Canyon Lodge/Two Guns. With burning anger growing, clashes between natives and the European settlers became more frequent.

Apache and Navajo Conflicts

The Navajo and Apache tribes had been in conflict in this area for centuries. In 1878 an Apache tribe raided a Navajo village of hogans, destroying these homes and slaughtering everyone but three young girls. These girls were taken as prisoners. Another tribe of Navajo retaliated. The found 42 Apache hiding in the cave at Canyon Lodge/Two Guns. The Apache Death Cave article describes the horrific murders that happened in 1878. The violence continued for decades.

The Apache Death Cave entrance is in the foreground.
The largest room inside the Apache Cave had been a cool retreat during the heat of the day for the inhabitants of the region. I expected to feel uneasy inside this cave with the rumors of death, but it was peaceful under the hot, sandy surface. The 1968 novel, “Two Guns” by Gladwell Grady Richardson holds the first recorded history of the Apache Death Cave legend which leaves one to suspect that the story may have been pure fiction created years earlier by “Chief Crazy Thunder” Miller who you’ll meet later in the article.

Billy the Kid

You’ve heard of Billy the Kid? Well, his history has intertwined with Canyon Lodge/Two Guns and Diablo Canyon.

Henry McCarty, also known as William H. Bonney or “Billy the Kid” was a legend. He evaded capture many times after committing several separate murders. Photo Credit: Historic2guns.com

“Billy the Kid” was orphaned at age 14. At 16 years old he was arrested for stealing food in 1875. Ten days later he robbed a Chinese laundry and was arrested again. He became the most wanted ‘man’ in Arizona when murdered a blacksmith in 1877. From 1879-1880 Billy the Kid and his gang hid out in nearby Canyon Diablo (Devil’s Canyon) three miles from Canyon Lodge/Two Guns. In December of 1880, Billy the Kid became well known as his story was published in the Las Vegas Gazette and The Sun in New York City. Billy was captured, tried and convicted of murder in April of 1881. He was sentenced to hang the following month at 21 years old. Billy the Kid escaped on April 28th, shooting and killing two sheriff deputies. Two months later he was reportedly shot and killed by Deputy Garrett at Fort Sumner, New Mexico on July 14, 1881. However, since that infamous date a man or men have claimed to be “Billy the Kid” posing doubt that Billy the Kid had been successfully executed, but rather escaped again.

Diablo Canyon (Devil’s Canyon)

Diablo Canyon (Devil’s Canyon) steel expanse still serves locomotive traffic several times daily.

At Canyon Diablo, three miles away from Canyon Lodge/Two Guns, railroad construction halted abruptly in the summer of 1881 – summer 1882. The Atlantic and Pacific Railroad company needed to recalculate the steel bridge to span Diablo Canyon. The workers set up a ‘shack’ town of 2,000 “suspicions souls.” Without work people were paranoid and poor. Robberies occurred hourly. Newcomers didn’t have a chance. Many were beaten and robbed within minutes of their arrival. Murders were commonplace. There was little law enforcement at that time. The first town marshal was sworn in at 3:00 pm and was buried at 8:00 pm the same day. Canyon Lodge/Two Guns was subjected to these behaviors throughout the year long stall in railway progress.

Johann Hermann Wolf Born 1831 in Germany / Died 3 September 1889 at Diablo Canyon
He carries the honor of being the only man who died naturally at Diablo Canyon.

As Da Viking and I drove across the rocky plains from Diablo Canyon back to Two Guns, we saw this structure. From a distance we couldn’t discern what it was. As we drew closer, we could see it was a purposefully placed headstone. Due to the daily sand blasting from the wind and dirt we couldn’t make out the inscription. I wrote down each letter as if it was a puzzle.

Upon further investigation, we learned that the marker was written in German, placed by his sister, Frau Geheimrathin Becker, years after his passing. He had been living alone on the outskirts of the settlement as a beaver trapper. He is believed to have had a trading post, but the exact location isn’t certain. Johann Hermann Wolf holds the honor of being the only natural death to occur in Diablo Canyon.

Platinum Ore

Remember that meteor that had entered our atmosphere 22,000 year ago? It left an enormous crater 23 miles west of Two Guns. It also left a unique iron compound, platinum, the rarest metal on Earth.

A platinum nugget found at Canyon Lodge/Two Guns in 1886.
Photo Credit: historical2guns.com

In 1886 platinum was discovered by two sheepherders. Fred W. Volz, a Navajo Indian trader, confirmed their find to be valuable. It is identified as meteoric iron. Platinum is the rarest metal on Earth. Volz sent samples to a Los Angeles metallurgist. An order was received for two flatcar loads paying $751.00 per pound. In 1886 this was an unheard of amount of money. I can only imagine the greed that occurred at Canyon Lodge/Two Guns with the mining that followed.

Santa Fe Train Robbery – Diablo

The seventy-seven cars rumbled over the steel bridge. Trains chatter over these tracks several times each day.
Diablo Canyon (Devil’s Canyon) train bridge has a curious history which impacted Two Guns.

In 1889 four cowboys from the Hashknife Ranch robbed the Santa Fe train while on horseback. Their loot included $100,000 in cash, 2,500 silver dollars, gold coins, silver watches, jewelry and diamonds. Buckey O’Neill led a posse to capture the bandits, but only recovered nearly $100. After being released years later, one of the thieves disclosed that their treasure was buried at the rim of Diablo Canyon. For decades treasure hunters have continued to scope the area looking for the cache. Many still search today!

Da Viking surveying the rim of Canyon Diablo.

Trading Post Tragedies

Around 1907 Canyon Lodge/Two Guns became a regular stop and trading post. This dirt road was becoming more popular as people moved between Winslow and Flagstaff. Mr. and Mrs. Daniel B. Oldfield, a couple in their 50;s, built a small stone home at this location along “Old Trails Highway.” (Later Old Trails Highway became Route 66.)

In the 1920’s Earl and Louise Cundiff bought the trading post at Canyon Lodge. They added a restaurant and gasoline pumps. Here’s where a whole new chapter of trouble started. . .

Henry “Two Gun” Miller, named himself, “Chief Crazy Thunder.”
He leased property from the Cundiffs and built a zoo.
He’s holding a Gila Dragon/Gila Monster which has a poisonous bite.
Photo Credit: historic2guns.com

Henry “Two Gun” Miller (Also self-named “Injun” Miller even though he wasn’t of Native descent.) approached the Cundiff’s about leasing some of their 360 acres. Miller was known as an unpredictable, easy-to-anger hermit. Yet, he had a powerful influence in developing a zoo and re-naming the area to be known as “Two Guns.”

Chief Crazy Thunder’s zoo at Two Guns included mountain lions.

With the help of Hopi Indians, Henry “Two Guns” Miller/ “Chief Crazy Thunder” built stone structures to house mountain lions and other desert creatures to display for the public.

In addition to zoo ticket fees, Miller sold admission to tour the Apache Death Cave. In his small souvenir shop, he is said to have sold bones found in the cave from the Apache massacre.

We explored the Apache Death Cave which is a labyrinth under the “Two Guns” settlement.

On March 3, 1926 Chief Crazy Thunder (aka Henry “Two Guns” Miller) became enraged with Earle Cundiff over their lease agreement. Chief Crazy Thunder shot Cundiff, killing him. Surprisingly Chief Crazy Thunder was acquitted and returned to Two Guns. Karma may have come into play as Chief Crazy Thunder was mauled by one of his mountain lions on two separate occasions. Later he was bitten by a Gila Dragon and became ill from the poison. With a swollen arm he left Two Guns with silver, turquoise and merchandise from the Cundiff’s store.

Mrs. Louise Cundiff continued to run her trading post even after a fire destroyed the building. She built a large framed structure and continued selling goods with her second husband, Phillip Hersch.

Chief Crazy Thunder returned to Two Guns and demanded “his” property be returned to him. A procession of court dates ensued costing Mrs. Louise Cundiff $15,000 before she was permitted the title to the land that had been hers all along.

I imagine that “Chief Crazy Thunder”/”Injun Miller”/ “Henry Two Guns Miller” was a charismatic, persuasive character. He had created a wild west theme park for travelers. His stories seemed to be eccentric. Were the bones he sold really from the Apache braves? Did he get bitten by a Gila Dragon (Monster) or did he just want some time away? Was the merchandise he took rightly his? He was definitely manipulative and demanding. Henry Miller was a bigger than life western legend. I love learning about these unique personalities who have created a legacy in our world.

The curse continued its hold on the area. Through the decade of the 1950’s the land was leased and abandoned in a cycle that proved to be dizzying.

In 1960 a man by the name of Dreher revitalized the area, even the zoo. Interstate 40 provided an exit just for Two Guns. Things were looking up. People suspected that Dreher had broken the curse. However, in 1971 the whole area was destroyed by a fire. It has been abandoned ever since.

A Peek into the Future

In 2011 it was reported that Russell Crowe purchased the land to remake the 1973 film, “West World.” Little has been found about this rumor since the original statement.

According to Route 66 news, John D. Gunderman, an investor, plans to build a luxury resort at the Two Guns site. He announced his plans in August of 2020. Gunderman and his wife have been working on this project since 2018. After Gunderman’s mother passed, he and his wife took a trip out west. In an email he stated, “At this time we really do not want to share any information more than the website because we are working through the purchase of the land and want to have everything in order before we make everything public, we hope you will understand and respect our wishes. I promise you we will keep you posted as we move forward. When we have the green light we would love to have your help and support to spread the word. I will share this much with you, we plan on honoring the History of Two Guns and building on Route 66.

Will this curse be steadfast to the property? I encourage you travel to Two Guns and have a look-see at this site. The history is rich and the sun is warm.

You can shop for Restless-Viking merchandise! https://restless-viking.myshopify.com/

Resources

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/two-guns

https://www.historic2guns.com/history

https://naturalhistory.si.edu/research/botany/about/historical-expeditions/whipple-pacific-railroad-survey

https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/106355575/hermann-wolfe

https://www.route66news.com/2020/08/02/2-guns-luxury-resort-planned/

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