As I was visiting with my parents and out of town relatives, my husband, Chuck (Da Viking), called me on the evening of Friday, August 6, 2021. It’s unusual for him to call, so my heart skipped a beat as I answered, distancing myself from the group.

“Hey,” he was chipper. I was relieved. “Captain Bob called and asked me to be the coxswain for a sailboat’s 100th birthday tomorrow!” The excitement buzzed around his words. He reminded me of a second grader telling me about a present he’d received. Captain Bob is from the Michigan Maritime Museum in South Haven where Chuck had recently become a volunteer.

Chuck continued without taking a breath, “Bernida has won races, was lost for years, found, renovated aaannnd she won the same race again. It’s a remarkable story!” He gasped, “It’s a 1920’s theme. You can come. There will be jazz music and ice cream. It’s from 1:00 – 4:00.”

“Awesome! I will be there for the beginning.” I matched his enthusiasm. I had already made plans for 4:00 pm, so I could easily make it for the start of the event.

That night I put out a plea on Facebook to borrow 1920’s attire. A friend lent me her flapper-styled dress, so I would be clad in a timely piece.

Friends Good Will – 1810 Tall Ship

Why was Chuck called for this mission? Well, last spring Chuck had been trained to sail on the Michigan Maritime Museum’s 1810 tall ship, Friends Good Will, as a volunteer. Working the lines on the sloop had become one of his favorite pastimes. Chuck has always been able to assimilate new skills quickly. It didn’t surprise me that Captain Bob had asked Da Viking for assistance with Bernida’s celebration.

‘How was Chuck suppose to be a coxswain?’ I wondered as I drove to South Haven.

As far as I knew a coxswain leads a crew team of multiple rowers in a long, thin boat. He or she is perched at the stern of the boat facing the oarsmen and oarswomen helping them keep time and direction during races. I wasn’t sure how Chuck would be a coxswain for a sailboat, but I was about to witness him having fun!

Michigan Maritime Museum

In addition to Friends Good Will and Bernida, the museum has three other historical boats: Merry Time, Lindy Lou and Life Boat 36460. Each provide on-water experiences for tourists. The money raised from ticket sales goes right back into the upkeep of each vessel.

South Haven’s Michigan Maritime Museum is a wonderful organization. Check out their website or call. Their contact information is at the end of the article under “Resources.”

Arrival

I had arrived a little early at noon thinking I could help if they needed it. After all, I was in costume! (Thank you, Jordyn V.!)

Chuck found me on the dock and introduced me to Patti who is the chief fundraiser. Patti Montgomery and her team impressed me with their dedication to the fleet of five ships and running the museum. Next, we walked over to Bernida.

Bernida floated in the sun. Her wooden surfaces gleamed. She was much smaller than I had expected. I was curious about her history: winning races, being lost, then found, restored and winning races again. Her story is unlike any other sailboat’s saga.

Bernida’s Celebration Crew

I met Doug, one of the other volunteer crew members. Soon others climbed into Bernida. The humid air radiated with their excitement as the team prepared to sail this 100 year old boat.

Behind the boat Da Viking was sitting in a zodiac. He was prepared to haul Bernida to the open waters of Lake Michigan. “So that’s how the coxswain’s job works with a this sailboat!” I realized silently. Being a century old, Bernida doesn’t have a motor and needs to be towed through the channels.

Bernida’s Departure

As the quartet under the tent played 1920’s jazz music, the lines were cast onto the boat. Chuck pulled Bernida away from the dock and headed down the channel.

The plan was to have the jazz band play, “Happy Birthday,” as Bernida returned to the dock a short time later. I went to wait in the shade of the tent.

Missy and Pat Snyder

Right away I spied a happy couple. We started chatting about Bernida. It was a thrill to meet Pat and Missy Snyder. They have an interesting connection to Bernida.

Pat recalled his first time seeing the sailboat in the back of the Smoke Stack Junkque Shoppe’s warehouse. It had been the late 1990’s. “It had been painted green with Michigan State University markings on the hull.” His eyes widened in disbelief. “I think they’d used just regular house paint.” Pat sighed and shook his head.

Pat and Missy bubbled with excitement about Bernida. Missy and Pat remembered seeing Bernida years ago in a warehouse located in Frankfort, Michigan. (The book, Bernida, had said the warehouse had been located in Arcadia, MI. With follow up emails, Pat confirmed that the “Smoke Stack Junkque Shoppe,” owned by Bob Lucas, was at 218 Day Street in Frankfort, Michigan.)

The couple wanted to restore her, but it was apparent that the boat would need a LOT of work! The pair approached the city of Grand Rapids who wouldn’t allow permits for a space to hold the vessel. They were disappointed and moved onto other projects.

Decades Later . . .

Now fast forward to decades later. Pat and Missy’s love for sailboats had brought them to South Haven for an evening cruise on the sloop, Friends Good Will. Missy chimed in, “We couldn’t believe it! There at the dock sat, Bernida.” Both Missy and Pat were awestruck and thrilled to see her in beautiful shape and being sailed once again! What a transformation!

They were beaming at being able to be a part of Bernida’s 100th birthday! Their connection to this vessel gave me goosebumps!

The pair have sailed on Friends Good Will several times since then and have always paid homage to Bernida with each visit. There enthusiasm was contagious!

Since our meeting we’ve shared emails to clarify some historical facts. Check out this video link that Pat and Missy sent showing the 1927 Detroit to Mackinac race! Seeing the small sailboats charge through the waves is really striking!

Before I left for my 4:00 engagement, I bought the book, “Bernida: A Story That Can’t Be True” at the museum store. I looked forward to learning about Bernida’s crazy history! I did stop and get a scoop of ice cream, too! The volunteer adorned my treat with blueberries on top! Blueberries are a South Haven specialty.

Bernida’s Bold History

Ruweida III

George Owen designed several sailboats named Ruweida. Each had Roman Numerals added to demark the design order of these ocean racing vessels.

In 1921 George Lawley and Sons, shipbuilders in Massachusetts, built Ruweida III following George Owen’s specifications.

Bernida

Ruweida III was purchased by Russell Pouliot, an exceptional ship builder without formal training. In 1924 he brought the boat to Detroit and renamed the racing vessel, Bernida.

During prohibition, when the government had outlawed alcohol, the first Port Huron to Mackinac race took place on July 25, 1925. According to Robert (Bobby) Roadstrum each boat was carrying illegal booze on this momentous day. The Bernida, with Captain Russell Pouliot at the helm, took first place out of the twelve boats racing that day.

The Bernida was sold. The new owners entered her in the 1927 Bayview Mackinac race where she won. That was the last time Bernida had been verified until 1953. Nobody knew where Bernida had gone.

Pirate

Austin Freye was the owner of the sailing vessel, Bernida, on Lake Muskegon. He renamed her Pirate and won several local races. In 1957 Austin parked his boat in his front yard along US 31 with a “For Sale” sign.

OLROB

Dr. John Olwin said it was “an instant love affair” when he spotted the boat in Austin Freye’s yard. His daughter, Barbara, had said, “There can be no owner who loved that boat more than my father.” He renamed her, OLROB, after OLwin and his partner’s name Dr. ROBinson. The boat was a focal point for Dr. Olwin, his family and the partners of the medical practice.

Olwin’s cousins, Maggie and Patty, Benedictine nuns, could be seen crewing the vessel in their long robes and habits (head coverings) from the Pentwater Channel to Lake Michigan. John donated OLROB to the Sea Explorers in Pentwater in 1975.

Sea Explorer Ship 100

Richard Williams, a dentist in Pentwater, sailed the ship out of Ludington (1975-1977) and from Pentwater (1977-1979). The young male student crews had nicknamed her “the death machine” as she could cut through the unpredictable waves of Lake Michigan.

The Craig Family

A crew member from Dr. Olwin’s era bought the boat next in 1979 until 1983. Sammy and Terry Craig were unable to be contacted for their memories and stories of their ownership period.

Jeff Spencer

Jeff Spencer had grown up on a fruit farm and didn’t know about anything about sailing. His friend, John Shrauger took Jeff on a short sail in Bernida on Pentwater Lake and Jeff was hooked. As a part time MSU engineering student who worked full time in Grand Rapids, Jeff made time to do some research about wooden sailboats.

He quickly learned that Bernida would need a lot of repairs and should be stored in a workshop. Jeff’s dad had a warehouse at his lumberyard. This made for a perfect arrangement!

Jeff called his high school woodshop teacher who gave advice and lent a hand. Jeff would mentally plan his tasks during the day while driving and working. Then, he’d renovate until midnight most days of the week. Instead of buying marine plywood, which was expensive, Jeff bought pressure treated plywood.

Being a researcher, Jeff contacted the Bayview Yacht Club and included pictures in 1984. Soon he heard back from Robert (Bobby) Roadstrum who confirmed that Jeff’s boat was BERNIDA!

Fiberglass?

Jeff launched Bernida on Lake Pentwater in 1985. Someone had suggested that he should put fiberglass around the hull to prevent leaks. He did, but it leaked so much worse than before. “We didn’t think we’d make it back to shore.” Jeff had said. He worked through the winter to remove the fiberglass. Commemorating his graduation from MSU, he painted the hull green with Spartan decorations on the front and back.

With spruce planks from Sitka, Alaska the mast was rebuilt in 1990. With little knowledge of racing, Jeff entered around twenty-five sailing competitions. He won many of these.

With working full time in Grand Rapids, Jeff felt he didn’t have the time to spend on the boat’s needed upkeep: scraping planks, pounding cotton into the spaces and re-caulking. So he decided to sell the vessel in 1993. It wasn’t easy to sell an antique wooden boat.

Bob Lucas – Arcadia/Frankfort, Michigan

Bob Lucas, owner of the “Smoke Stack Junque Shoppe” from Frankfort, struck up a trade with Jeff. He offered Jeff a shotgun, a 30/30 rifle and an old 1980 Lincoln Continental. After three years of the boat being on the market (now 1996), Jeff was ready to sell/trade the boat. I imagine a handshake sealed the deal. However, Jeff never liked the car and sold it a short time later for $700.00. Jeff still owns the guns.

After three years of being in storage(1999), Bob Lucas contacted Peggy Walsh-Sarnecki from the Detroit Free Press. She ran an article about the winner of the first Bayview Mackinac Race was now for sale in a northern Michigan barn.

Toby Murray

Toby and his wife, Elaine, had retired in Vermont after running the Three Mountain Inn for a number of years. On August 24, 1999 Toby was casually reading the Detroit Free Press and saw the article about the Bernida being for sale. Toby had grown up on Mackinac Island and knew of the races and this particular sailboat.

Peggy Walsh-Sarnecki, the journalist, had stated, “Now the boat is a creaky old lady, holed up in a storage shed in Frankfort, near Traverse City. She’s been neglected, needs a complete face-lift, and a body job.”

The following summer Toby took a trip to see Bernida in person. He hired Jay Altmaier to assess the boat. On November 26, 2001 Jay Altmaier sent a long letter listing the “considerable number of repairs needed.” Jay closed his letter with, “All it takes is money.”

After a year of writing letters, Toby called a Mackinac Island friend, “Who do we have on Mackinac who is a doer?” Toby asked. The answer was immediate, “Bart Huthwaite!”

The Great Turtle Foundation

When Bart learned of Bernida being available, he had dreamed that she could become the flagship of the summer youth sailing program. He asked Dave Irish, a professional wood restorer, for a quote. The cost to restore Bernida would be $175,000.00.

Seeing only opportunities, Bart moved forward and started a 501(C)3 foundation to raise the money, “The Mackinac Island Yacht Club Great Turtle Foundation.” The board members included, Bart Huthwaite, Toby Murray, David Rowe, Jack Keck and Dick Cregar.

Bart donated the first $20,000. They parked Bernida in front of the Mission Point Resort on Mackinac Island in hopes of gaining contributions. Sadly, little interest was shown for the historical boat. Bernida was moved back to St. Ignace at the Arnold Ferry building. She remained there for a couple of years.

In 2005 the foundation pushed forward with fundraising. They sold hats, t-shirts and had raffles. Jeff Steiner wrote a song about sailing on Bernida which was performed at the Mackinac Island Yacht Club in August.

Roman “Emory” Barnwell

Becky Barnwell, owner of the Iroquois Hotel on Mackinac Island, contacted Bart at the end of 2007. Her son, Emory, would be returning from England soon. He had been studying wooden boat restoration.

When Bart shook hands with Emory in 2008 at The Pink Pony restaurant, Bart knew he was shaking the hand of a carpenter. The deal had been that Bart would give Emory the ship’s title and Emory would restore the wooden vessel as her new owner.

Emory approached Bob Brown, the manager of Arnold Ferry Line, about space for the renovation at the old coal dock on Mackinac Island. With a love for wooden boats, Bob agreed. Bob also graciously provided all the tools, utilities and even the hoist needed for Emory to complete the task.

Emory quickly used up the entire $15,000 in his savings account as he replaced the cheap wood with marine plywood.

Emory soon realized that the mast had rotted from the inside out and needed to be replaced, too. In the cold months of 2010 Bart, “the doer”, contacted Al Declercq of Doyle Sails Detroit to assist Emory in making a new mainsail and jib. Al generously donated these new sails.

Emory had spent two full years, usually seven days a week, renovating Bernida. The completed restoration was stunning!

Emory Ends His Ownership

Bursting with excitement, Emory entered the Cheneaux Islands’ Antique Wooden Boat Show in 2010. Sadly, just as he started sailing to Hessel, Michigan a portside shroud broke and he had to turn back. A shroud is a line that supports the mast.

With his bank accounts empty, Emory tried to gain more financial support and interest in Bernida. Unfortunately, very little was accomplished. As 2011 neared, he realized he wouldn’t be able to afford insurance let alone regular maintenance. Sadly, he put Bernida up for sale on Ebay.

Al Declerqc, who had donated the sails, quickly called Emory and promised him $15,000, the asking price. He wanted to enter Bernida in the 2012 Bayview Mackinac Race. Al had been racing since he was twelve years old. (1966) In ocean racing he’d won 21 first place medals.

The 2012 Bayview Mackinac Race

Eighty-seven years after winning the very first Bayview Mackinac Race in 1925, she’d won again! (She’d also taken first place in 1927.) As Bernida was being towed into the channel, the crowd on shore erupted in cheers with a standing ovation. The crew of three fathers and three sons grew emotional as everyone recognized this impossible feat!

Donation

Jeff Steiner contacted the Michigan Maritime Museum in 2012 about Bernida joining their fleet. Jeff knew that the Michigan Maritime Museum was the only museum that had craftsmen who could maintain Bernida. Al Declercq, who was the most recent owner of Bernida, donated her to the South Haven museum.

Patti Montgomery, the executive director, explained, “The Michigan Maritime Museum is where visitors can not just read about maritime history or view objects of our maritime past, but where you can get out on the water and experience the sights, sounds and smells of a rich history spanning hundreds of years.”

Resources

South Haven Maritime Museum 260 Dyckman Ave, South Haven, MI 49090 Phone: (269) 637-8078

“Bernida, A True Story That Can’t Be True” by Tom Ervin and Al DeCelercq 2012

Pat and Missy Snyder

On-Water Experiences