Have you heard of Kelley’s Island? I hadn’t until my husband, Chuck, mentioned it last month. Honestly, I didn’t think there would be anything exciting to do on this tiny 4.4 square mile island in Lake Erie. Boy, was I wrong! Join us on our Kelley’s Island Caper! We found ancient stone markings, a VW Van gathering and Brandy Alexanders all while riding in a golf cart!

“Hey, did you see the three VW vans?” I asked DaViking (Chuck) as he was organizing some Go Pro cameras for the ferry ride. I discretely pointed, “I noticed the hippy vans when I was up on the rocks.” He nodded, “Oh yeah.” and continued adjusting the video equipment and shared his plans, “When we get over to the island, we’ll drive around for awhile. We can’t check into the campground for a couple of hours. Then, we’ll rent a golf cart. You can drive the golf cart to the campsite. We can set up the rooftop tent and then tour the island.” Chuck explained that most people use these small gas powered vehicles to navigate the small landmass. I thought that sounded fun, but I was doubtful that this tiny island would capture my interest. I was expecting to have some reading time.

Setting Up Camp

The clouds had cleared since our damp arrival to the island, which made popping up the tarp and tent less messy. DaViking has designed a wonderful set up for our “looking behind the curtain of life,” when we frequently relocate. I promptly got comfy and parted the pages of my book.

Distant thunder turned to a spattering of rain. Boy, I was glad we’d already set up camp! As lightning danced across the sky we hunkered down inside the Jeep. I was able to relax and read until the storm had passed.

Glacial Grooves!

As the sky cleared once again, our first curiosity to visit was the Glacial Grooves at the northern side of the island. As we walked over the damp leaves I spied carved ruts that held the history of an era I struggled to envision. 18,000 years ago these groves were carved by a sheet of ice. I was smitten with the glistening waves of limestone that stood before me.

The excitement of discovering more about this ancient landmass grabbed ahold of me. “A glacier slid through here.” my voice carried a sense of awe as I stood at the end of the glacial grooves.

My interest in Kelley’s Island was growing quickly. I soaked in the information on the signage explaining these ridges.

“Kelley’s Island IS fascinating! Where are we going next?” I practically danced back to the golf cart as the leaves applauded my approval in the breeze.

Exploring Kelley’s Island

“Let’s head around the outskirts of the island.” DaViking and I hunted for beauty seen by few. We hiked along the rocky shore and through a swamp on a beautifully laid boardwalk. “I was dead wrong.” I admitted again to Chuck, “There is sooo much to see here!”

Kelley’s Island is most often spelled without an apostrophe as seen on the signs. However, it is acceptable to still use the punctuation mark, too.

The two of us found many peaceful places around the island. We learned that Tom and Paula Barlett come to the island several times each year. In the summer they tag and count birds. When September rolls around, Monarch Butterflies are carefully tagged as they make a stop on the island during their migration. Owls are the focus of their scientific studies in October. This North Pond Nature Preserve was a unique coastal wetland gem!

Charles Herndon Art Gallery

Located on the east side of the island is Charles Herndon’s Art Gallery. We strolled through his vast lawn that holds an array of sculptures. Charles Herndon has mastered techniques using a variety of materials. The display was captivating. He has carved stones, molded bronze, soldered metal and formed cement. Unfortunately, Charles wasn’t home. I would have enjoyed meeting him and learning about his skills and motivation.

Inscription Rock

Our next mission of interest was finding Inscription Rock. . At one time there had been two “inscription rocks.” These held messages carved by Natives into the soft limestone. The petroglyphs communicated the ideal locations for fishing. Natives had permanent fishing sites on the island that they would visit in the fall and spring. But the tribes had never established a year round settlement on the Kelley’s Island.

The Unique, Tiny Airport

There were STOP signs along a straight stretch of the roadway. Why? Drivers are required to stop and look for aircraft! Yes! That’s right! Airplanes may be seen crossing Monaghan Road.

Kelly Island Lime and Transport Company

Kelley Island Lime and Transport Company operated from 1886-1955. The highly valued Columbus Limestone on the island was used to manufacture piers and break walls. It was ground into flux which was used in steel production. Lime was created when the material was burned at high temperatures inside kilns. The remains of the rock crushing mill still stands today.

Estes School

The young islanders are known as the “Green Devils” and spend their time learning at Estes School as well as taking high school courses on line. There are usually less than ten students each year. James Estes had donated $10,000 to replace the wooden school with this brick building in 1901. By 1903 students were engaged in learning inside this new structure named for the benefactor.

Adult Beverages

A variety of unique grapes can be grown in this island climate. Catawba, Niagara and Isabella grapes create distinctive flavors for the famous island wine. I sampled some wine, but my favorite island beverage was a Brandy Alexander! The eggnog slushy felt like blinking Christmas lights on my tongue. YUM!

VW Van Weekend

Remember how we had spied three VW Vans in line at the ferry? Well, LEAK OIL was conducting their annual VW Van gathering at the 4-H camp. LEAK OIL stands for Lake Erie Area Kombi Owners Involvement League.

“This is remarkable! I’ve never seen so many VW vans! I didn’t know they had pop up sleeping spaces!” I was amazed at the variety of slick vehicles. I had believed that OUR roof top tent on our Jeep was a new, modern design. However, VW Vans were the original camping vehicles! There have been “six generations” of VW Vans. A new model has been designed nearly every ten years since the “first generation” in 1949.

We first noticed Richard A. Stevick and his VW Van as we were in line to board the ferry. Later, we’d passed him as he rode his bike along the road. Then, there he was at LEAK OIL. We struck up a conversation to get to know him.

Richard had taught at the university level. One class he’d taken and later taught included Amish studies. Their culture captivated Richard. He actually stayed with an Amish family. Richard shared that the father had gotten up before the sun to start chores. Richard joined him and has built a lasting friendship. “If I hadn’t gotten up at 4:30 am to work with him, he would have been friendly and all, but I don’t think we would’ve become such close friends.” Richard explained and offered us some mushrooms he’d foraged that afternoon.

I am looking forward to reading his books! Over the years I have admired the tight-knit Amish community, but haven’t had the opportunity to imbed myself as Richard has. (There are links for his books at the end of this article.)

Kelley’s Island Sunset

Kelley’s Island Museum

After arriving at the Kelleys Island Museum ten minutes early on Saturday, we waited in our golf cart for it to open. The volunteer warmly invited to come inside as she changed the lettering on the outdoor sign.

Datus and Irad Kelley were looking for investment properties to extend their opportunities beyond Cleveland, Ohio. In 1833 the brothers began purchasing land on Cunningham’s Island. By 1840 the township was renamed Kelleys Island, commonly dropping the apostrophe. Quarries, wineries and fishing of Blue Pike and White Fish were the main industries. The area grew quickly and became a village by 1887.

During the post-war boom of the 1950’s people started utilizing shorelines for recreation. Kelley’s Island became a popular vacation destination as it still is today.

Tarzan – The Islander’s Mascot

As we were preparing to leave the museum, I asked about the large statue of a Boston Terrier featured at the entrance. Inside there was a display, too. “What’s the story of this cute dog?” I inquired. The volunteer explained that Tarzan had once worked at the dock. “He’s the island mascot.” She explained. He would carry a flashlight to assist boaters. (Top Right Photo) Tarzan had many talents. He could verbally ask for a, “Hamburger” and “Beer.” (Bottom Right Photo)

The kind lady raised her eyebrows, “But his true claim to fame was the time a man fell off the pier and nearly drowned. Tarzan saved his life.” According to the legend, Tarzan paced the planks barking, making a scene, until others noticed and rescued the gentleman. Tarzan was a local hero who humbly continued to work along the dock by his owner’s restaurant, The Casino. Tarzan had even appeared as a guest on The Johnny Carson Show!

“There’s a stuffed Tarzan hidden in the museum.” The island expert smiled, “Once found, the child receives a sticker (top left), a pencil and other treats.” That child is then tasked with re-hiding the furry friend within the museum displays. There was a post-it note next to the cash register describing Tarzan’s newest location. This way the volunteer of the day would be aware of the mascot’s hiding spot. I was charmed by this island tradition! The docent graciously gave me a sticker, “I Found Tarzan.” (Top Left Photo)

The Ferry

The drizzle was steady on Sunday morning as the ferry company, owned by Jim Palladino and his family, prepared to accommodate the crowd. The team had called in an extra ferry boat to run in between the usual intervals as well as retired workers to help move the LEAK OIL group back to the mainland.

Islanders intrigue me. There’s something so solid about the way island residents readily pitch in to help. There’s an attitude of “we’re all in this together” rather than the typical stand-off observations exercised by city folk. When we pulled up to the ferry line, three workers were directing traffic while a constant drizzle chilled the air.

My perspective about Kelley’s Island had come full circle. I had enjoyed both the historical and modern day sites. I especially had fun traveling around the island by golf cart. Kelley’s Island holds a special place in my heart. The 236 citizens who make this haven their home, host guests with a servitude and devotion. It was a pleasure to meet several hard-working people who share their piece of paradise.

Check out DaViking’s YouTube video of our caper on Kelleys Island! We had such a memorable time!

Resources:

https://www.kelleysislandhistorical.org/island-history2.html

https://raybuck.com/vw-bus-transporter-history/

Kelley’s Island State Park 920 Division St, Kelleys Island, OH 43438 Phone: (419) 746-2546

Related Links:

Growing Up Amish: The Rumspringa Years John Hopkins Press 2014 – Available on Amazon

Growing Up Amish: The Teenage Years – Hardcover – Available on Amazon

Restless Viking merchandise is now available!