While in Jamaica my husband, Chuck, and I searched for excursions that would be unlike anything we’d ever find in Michigan. Taking a bamboo raft along a rainforest river sounded enchantingly magical. Join us as we meet Messan, our guide, and slide through the turquoise water surrounded by lush greenery while sipping rum punch.
The Great Kapok Tree
The damp air swished through the broad leaves above us as a woodpecker pounded in the distance. I smiled in awe as we strolled along the path to the rafts. I felt as if I had just became a character in one of my favorite books, ‘The Great Kapok Tree‘ by Lynne Cherry.
In the story, the rainforest creatures convince a visiting man to leave the great kapok tree and not chop it down. Before Earth Day each year I’d read this book to my second grade students. Then we’d work together to make a three dimensional rainforest display of animals and plants.
The Martha Brae Legend
As Chuck climbed a stone stairway to a bar, I read a sign which shared the legend of “Rio Matibereon,” The River of Martha Brae. According to the story an old Taino witch had once lived along this river. Spanish treasure hunters had heard of the Taino gold which was hidden along this spring fed waterway. The men captured the witch demanding that she lead them to the gold.
Pretending to comply with their wishes, she led the troupe into a cave and then suddenly disappeared. Looking for the witch, the explorers rushed out of the cave to find that the river had changed course and was flooding. The group was swallowed up and drowned. According to the legend the gold has never been found.
Rum Punch
Chuck suddenly appeared by my side. “I got a whole bottle of rum punch.” He grinned and proudly held up a cloth bag containing a full bottle of “pink paradise” waiting patiently in a bed of ice and a few plastic cups. “I thought I had ordered just a couple of drinks, but we have an entire bottle!” He shrugged and raised his brows. “I guess we’re set for the whole trip.”
The Rafts
The bamboo rafts were expectantly positioned for riders. A gentleman stepped confidently onto a bamboo raft, unfolded the seat and added pads. Using a long bamboo stick, he guided the gondola to a cement staircase. “Welcome to Jamaica!” He flashed a bright smile. Less than gracefully, I descended with a plop into the padded seat. I leaned to Chuck, “I haven’t even had a single drink.” I shook my head at my lack of gracefulness.
Messan, Our Guide
We introduced ourselves and asked our guide’s name. “I be Messan.” He pushed his stick into the rocky river bottom. I asked, “How long have you been a river guide?” “Oh, today, first day.” He shot us a sideways look while his grin slowly grew. “Every day be first day.” I agreed with his philosophy. “We do need to make the most of each day.”
Chuck asked, “Did you say your name is Messin’? As in messing around?” Messan laughed heartily. Our kinship instantly grew. “Would you like some rum punch?” Chuck offered. “Awww. Naw, mon. I be takin’ care of ya’ll. But tanks!”
and skilled at steering the long raft with a bamboo stick.
“Did you grow up nearby?” Chuck asked. “Sherman. Same village as de Olympic sprinter.” Messan stood proudly.
Our Journey
Photo Credit: Chuck Hayden
As large birds circled and squelched Messan explained the life around us. “Up dere in da tree es termites. (left photo) Dey no stay on da ground, dey build home high in tree.” He pointed above our raft to the sphere shape on the low branch.
“Over dere, da orange at da top of dat tree es African Tulip.” (middle photo) Later as we rounded a bend Messan grew even more energetic. “Dat,” he pointed to a tall bush along the shore, “right dere es da calabash tree. We use da fruit to make our bowls.” He jabbed the pole in the water to direct our raft. “I be one of ninety dat does da carvin’.” He smiled proudly. “When we done, I show you my gyira.” Gyira is the dried fruit which Messan had carved.
Short lived rain showers occur regularly in Jamaica.
Messan explained our surroundings and which birds were calling from the trees.
The humid breezes drifted by my bare arms and legs. It was comfortable enough for me to wear my swimwear in February. I wouldn’t have minded if it rained, the warmth was amazingly refreshing for this Michigan gal. Behind us puffy clouds moved slowly across the blue sky. “It never rains over de whole island at da same time.” Messan had commented.
Ackee Fruit
“Are there ackee fruit trees along the river?” I inquired about their national produce. “Ackee and saltfish es our national dish!” Messan nodded. “Ya take da onions and peppers, chop ’em up and cook dem. Add ackee and saltfish. Ummmm Ummmm!” He rubbed his belly.
Shopping Opportunities
Shoreline ‘pop up shops’ were available for us to purchase souvenirs. “Dere’s more at da end, too.” Messan informed as we drifted passed the goods. I figured he may have been concerned about me getting safely onto land and then back aboard the craft.
Goats
Goat milk and goat meat curry are popular foods throughout the island nation.
Messan Takes Our Picture
“I take you picture.” Messan gestured for my phone, which I gladly handed to him. He bent at his knees, easily, I might add, and snapped a few photos.
Gyira Carving
“Take dat bag out from behind dere.” Messan instructed as he handed back my phone. Chuck obliged reaching behind the seat. “Dat’s da carvin’ I do on gyira fruit. Dey used dese bowls long time ago. It be old art.” We complimented his work and asked how much. “For you, be 12 dollar.” I held one up. Chuck confirmed with a nod. “We’d like this one please.”
Suddenly, Messan was calling to the raft behind us, speaking in a creole-type dialect, Patwa. I didn’t understand what he was saying. The other raft moved next to us and there was a hand off of a small object.
Messan crouched down and began carving on the dish we’d chosen. He was signing his artwork. We’d always treasure this piece.
Messan’s information was correct. There were many vendors with Jamaican items for purchase. I bought several bracelets.
Gyira
The gyira fruit, from the calabash tree, is also known by ‘packy’ and ‘gourdy.’ We will treasure Messan’s artifact (right) for our lifetime!
Once it’s hollowed out and dried decorative carvings can be made on the surface.
These have been used as plates, bowls and maracas for centuries.
Our rafting trip through the rainforest with Messan will remain a centered memory which I’ll reflect upon often. Messan’s carved cup will be set in a place of honor. Recalling the humid warmth, the rustle of the lush leaves and the whistles of the birds will bring solace to me during Michigan’s winter weather as well as during future stressful times.
Related Links:
Restless Viking merchandise is available!
The Great Kapok Tree is available on Amazon.
One thought on “Bamboo Rafting – Jamaica”
Superior description and fun to read and see! Super!!