Who can claim to be the inventor of the Coney Dog? Well, this controversy centers around Michigan: Jackson and Detroit. This quarrel follows Macedonian immigrants who had passed through Ellis Island in the early 1900’s. Join Chuck and I as we taste our way to the truth about who brought the Coney Dog to Detroit and which coney is the best!
Todoroff’s Coney Dog: Jackson
As the story goes, it had been 1914 when George Todoroff had crossed the Atlantic from Greece. When he arrived at Ellis Island, he’d eaten a hot dog. Once he’d settled in Jackson, Michigan, George had decided to make improvements to the ‘tube steak.’ With a scoop of his family’s chili sauce, a dollop of mustard and chopped onions. Voila’, The Coney Dog!
George Todoroff had opened his restaurant next to the Jackson train station and served the community and travelers twenty-four hours a day. George had never applied for a patent or trademark for his culinary creation. So, “Coney Dog” stands began popping up around the area.
I’d been hoping to sample this delight, but Todoroff’s no longer has a restaurant. It had closed in 2008. So, I called the number on their website. An upbeat man answered, “Hello, this is Kurt Todoroff.” I had been honored and charmed to be speaking to Kurt! He’s the fourth generation owner. “We distribute to restaurants and markets in Michigan, Ohio and Indiana.” He’d stated. I could hear his smile. “You can get our sauce at Jerome Country Market and McCallum’s.” Then Kurt quoted a positive review from Hunt’s Highlights of Michigan, a 1994 restaurant review publication. Next time I’m in the Jackson area, I plan to purchase a tub of Todoroff’s Chili!
Detroit Coney Island Controversy
Chuck and I crossed Lafayette Street in Detroit’s Greek Town to sample some famous coney dogs. Why were there two restaurants right next door to each other? When had these eateries been established? Which one has the best coney dog?
Gust Keros
A few years after George Todoroff had settled in Jackson, Michigan, Gust Keros, a sheepherder from Greece, had arrived in Detroit. In 1917 Gust Keros had started selling his Coney Dogs from a cart in Detroit’s Greek Town. His ‘tube steak’ had been covered in his homemade chili sauce, mustard and onions. With his business booming, Gust had opened a store front in 1919, “The American Coney Island.” Gust continued to set aside funds to pay for his brother, Bill, to immigrate from Greece.
The “American Coney Island” restaurant held a patriotic flare. This eye-catching, carnival-feel of red, white and blue has been popular among Detroiters since it’s beginning. Gust Keros had achieved the American dream!
Bill Keros
When Bill Keros had arrived, Gust naturally assumed his brother would join him in the successful family Coney Island business. However, there had been disagreements between Gust and Bill about the chili recipe and the character of the store. Behind closed doors the brothers had bickered. Their discussions have remained shrouded in mystery as they hadn’t achieved consensus.
Surprisingly, in 1924 Bill Keros had opened his own restaurant, “Lafayette Coney Island,” right next door! Bill’s smaller store has had a subdued, old-world feel. Many have thought that the Lafayette restaurant had been the original Detroit Coney, but the opposite is true.
It is said that Detroiters have pledged their allegiance to one of the brother’s Coney stores, and never have approached the other.
Coney Dogs Today
Today, American Coney Island is owned by Grace Keros, Gust’s granddaughter. Thirty years ago Lafayette Coney Island had been sold to Mike Z. Both restaurants still buzz with customers!
According to family stories and county records, it appears that George Todoroff of Jackson has to be credited with bringing the Coney Dog to Michigan. With over 500 Coney Dog restaurants in our state, George Todoroff has left a legacy.
In 2019 MLive ranked the top ten Coney Dog eateries in Michigan. Lafayette Coney Island had earned second place and American Coney Island received first.
Resources:
“Tube Steak” referenced from Dave Padula
The History of Detroit’s Famous Coney Dogs article
The Detroit Jewish News by Dan Raskin article
The Cult of the Detroit Coney Explained article
Culture Trip article
MLive “Michigan’s Top 10 Coney Dogs” by John Gonzalez and Emily Lawler 2019 article
2 thoughts on “The Detroit Coney Dog Controversy”
You don’t say anything about the flint style coneys. There are two styles of coneys chili and a meat style sauce. Both from Greeks
Try Flint Coney dog. Made with Kogels hotdogs. The Greeks recipes for the sauce never left Genesee county up until recent years. Give starlight at the corner of Center and Davison Road. Many of the coneys in Flint have long since closed due to the downturn in the auto industry in the town. As some of the originals like Angelos imperial capital night owl flint and several more..
Flint coneys are quite different than Detroit… bokoo mo betta