We emerged onto a wooded trail labeled, “The Prayer Path,” after parking the Jeep. The birch leaves rustled in the breeze. Birds called to one another as if they were making observations about these humans invading their forest.

Da Viking had read about the Stavkirke church built by volunteers on Washington Island, Wisconsin. Many residents of the island community hold Iceland roots, just as Da Viking. The Stavkirke, a unique church, is only one of 33 churches built in this style in the entire world. At one time there had been more than 1,000 Stavkirkes. We just HAD to see it!

The Prayer Path

In a hushed voice, respecting the peaceful wooded path, Chuck (Da Viking) explained that the volunteers first built a tall cover, like a pole barn without sides, over the space before beginning their project. This way they could work year round regardless of rain or snow. “Logs were hand hewed to start the construction. I believe there’s twelve that support the entire structure.” (Later when I researched and learned that the twelve logs are referred to as “Stavs” which means poles or masts used in Viking ship building.)

Chuck continued in a reverent yet excited tone. “This was built using Viking ship techniques just like Vikings had used in all their construction.” I think I witnessed a hop in his step when he said, “Viking.” He explained these techniques, “Tongue and groove joints along with trunnels. These are wooden dowel nails, so to speak.” He nodded, shrugged and continued along the trek.

We stopped to read another marker. “It’s based on a church in Norway from 1150 A.D. There are both pagan and Christian symbols used the decorating.” Chuck’s repertoire of knowledge and excitement to learn motivates me!

I peered through the trunks of the trees. Ahead I could catch a glimpse of the ornate structure. “I feel like we’re Hansel and Gretel.” I put voice to my thoughts. Fairytales and Disney are a part of who I am.

I was anxious to get a look at this church! The path meandered slowly. The Stravkirke felt so distant even though the wooden creation was in view.

Stavkirke Church

We rounded the last curve and walked into the clearing. There before us stood a centuries old-styled structure.

“The Vikings would leave their swords and shields on the porch surrounding the front of the church. This is where worshipers who were poor and sick would be cared for by the congregation. It’s called the ambulatory.” Chuck continued sharing his well-researched facts.

We had the place to ourselves. It was magical walking inside.

I stood in awe of the tedious processes the cohort of men undertook to create this space. Their dedication and reverence for time-tested techniques brought a desire for me to go back to the era where humbled work ethics and pride in one’s craft was at the forefront.

John Herschberger had been the head carpenter of this project. He also constructed the model sailing ship (hanging in the center) as a memorial for Carl Richter, a Washington Island fisherman.

In October of 1991 construction had started. As Chuck said, there was a large structure built over the site, so work could continue throughout the year. The dedication ceremony took place in August of 1995.

The Tool Belt

As I headed out the door I noticed a toolbelt hung from the rafters. “Hey, Chuck!” I called in a loud whisper. “There’s a tool belt hanging up here near the doorway.” I now had a mission to find the story about this.

A pamphlet I found outside held clues and facts to many mysteries surrounding the history of the Stavkirke and the unique ornaments hanging from the rafters: the sailing ship and the tool belt.

Dale Bjarnarson’s tool belt was hung as a memorial by Joh Herschberger, the head carpenter. Unfortunately, Dale died on April 3, 1995, just months before the dedication ceremony. Dale, a dedicated builder, was known to always carry a bag of jellybeans in his toolbelt. He would readily share these with young (and old) visitors to the worksite. Dale was especially fond of black jellybeans. I imagined that there is a bag of candy currently stashed in Dale’s toolbelt. Reading about this honor brought a sad smile.

Where is Stavkirke located?

This Stavkirke church can be found on Washington Island, Wisconsin. One is able to attend services on Wednesdays at 7:30 pm during July and August.

The Icelandic community is located in Lake Michigan, north of the Door Peninsula. There are several hourly car ferries to transport residents and tourists to this six mile wide wonderland. 708 people call Washington Island, “Home.” Stay tuned for articles and videos as we met locals during our ‘off season’ visit.

Restless Viking merchandise is now available: https://restless-viking.myshopify.com/

Resources

Trinity Evangelical Lutheran Church www.trinitylutheran-wi.com

The Washington Car Ferry https://wisferry.com/washington-island